How to Choose the Right Badminton String Tension
You're warming up, finding your rhythm, and then you hit a clear from the back of the court. It lands short. You swing harder on the next one, and the same thing happens. Now you're wondering whether it's time for a restring, or whether you need a higher tension.
Timing, technique and string tension all shape that result. Before you change anything, it’s worth understanding what tension actually does to your shots.

What string tension actually means
String tension is the force applied to the strings when your racket is strung. It's measured in pounds (lbs), and it changes how the string bed feels and responds when you hit the shuttle.
You'll often hear about the sweet spot: the area of the string bed where contact feels most effective. Where it sits, and how large the useful hitting area is, depends on both the racket's design and the string setup.
With the same racket and string, lower tension generally gives you a more forgiving response and a larger effective hitting area. That's helpful while you're still building consistent contact and working on deeper clears.
Higher tension generally gives you a firmer response and a smaller effective hitting area. Players who hit cleanly and consistently often like that sharper feedback, but off-centre shots become more demanding.
Here's the part many players get wrong: higher tension doesn't automatically give you more power. If a tighter setup makes your usual shots harder to play, a lower setting is probably the better choice for you.

Your string matters as much as the number
Tension is only half the setup. The string itself changes how your racket feels. One of the qualities is repulsion: the spring-like response as the shuttle leaves the strings.
If repulsion is high on your list, take a look at HNDRD JP65 Magnite. It’s designed around power, scoring highest for repulsion and hitting sound on our spec sheet, with strong control and shock absorption to go with it.
Don't judge your setup by sound alone
That crisp ping off a fresh string bed is satisfying. But sound is a poor guide to whether your tension is right.
Judge your setup by the shots you actually play. How far are your clears going? Are your defensive lifts reaching the back? Is your placement consistent? A sharper sound on its own doesn't mean a higher tension suits you.
Stop chasing other players' numbers
It's easy to get caught up in what everyone else uses. One player on your court strings at 30 lbs. Another swears by 28. Suddenly your 22 lbs feels like a beginner's setting.
It isn't. If your setup gives you comfortable length and consistent placement, it's working. There's no reason to go higher just to match someone else.
Start with a range, then see how it plays
These ranges from our stringing guide give you a sensible place to start the conversation with your stringer:
|
Playing experience |
Starting range |
What to assess |
|
Beginner |
17 - 20 lbs |
Forgiveness and comfortable length |
|
Intermediate |
20 - 24 lbs |
Consistent response across your usual shots |
|
Advanced |
24 - 27 lbs |
Whether firmer feedback suits your contact and preferences |
|
Professional |
28 - 34 lbs |
Pure skills. Maximum power. |
Use these to open the discussion, not as fixed requirements. Your technique, preferences, racket model and usual shuttle all play a part.
One rule does override everything else: your racket's recommended tension limits always come first. Check the instructions for your exact model. And remember, the maximum rating is a ceiling, not a target. A racket rated to 32 lbs doesn't need to be strung at 32 lbs.
The same goes for your level of play. Moving up to more competitive badminton doesn't mean you have to string tighter. Keep the setting that works for your game.

Three signs it's time to rethink your setup
Your clears keep falling short. Look at your timing and contact first. If the problem started right after a tension increase, talk to your stringer about a small reduction.
You're making clean contact but want firmer feedback. A small increase is worth testing. Keep the same racket and string, stay within the recommended range, and compare your usual shots over several sessions before you decide.
Your strings keep breaking. Ask your stringer to check where the breaks happen and inspect the grommets, the protective fittings around the string holes. Off-centre hits, general wear and damaged grommets can all cause breakage.
When durability is the priority
If your strings aren't lasting, look at the string's construction and gauge (its thickness) alongside tension. Gauge on its own won't tell you exactly how a string will feel or how long it will last, but it's part of the picture.
HNDRD JP 70 Magnite has a 0.70 mm gauge and a coating designed to improve durability and tension retention, so it's a strong option when those qualities matter most. If you want power alongside durability, try HNDRD JP 70 Power.
Switching strings? Use your old tension as a reference, not a rule
A new string won't necessarily feel the same at your usual tension. A different construction or gauge can change the response even at the exact same number of pounds.
So treat your current tension as a reference point. Tell your stringer what you were using before and what you want to improve, and let them help you land on the right number for the new string.
And wherever you can, change one thing at a time. If you switch string and tension together, you won't know which change made the difference.
Two knots or four knots?
Two-knot and four-knot stringing simply describe how the strings are installed and tied off.
First, the terms. The strings running lengthways are the mains. The ones running across the racket are the crosses.
|
Detail |
Two knots |
Four knots |
|
String lengths |
One continuous length for mains and crosses |
Separate lengths for mains and crosses |
|
Finished knots |
Two |
Four |
|
String choice |
The same string throughout |
The same string, or different strings for mains and crosses |
Knot count alone doesn't prove better control, longer tension retention or a safer frame. The right method depends on your racket's approved stringing instructions.
Playing at a higher tension doesn't, by itself, mean you need four knots. And setting different tensions for mains and crosses isn't exclusive to four-knot stringing either.
Reading a setup like "24 × 26 lbs"
You may see a setup written as 24 × 26 lbs. This usually means 24 lbs on the mains and 26 lbs on the crosses.
Confirm the notation with your stringer and keep a record of both numbers. Don't assume the crosses should always be 2 lbs higher, though. Follow the instructions for your racket.
What pre-stretch means
Pre-stretch is another setting your stringer may bring up. It means stretching the string before it's secured at your chosen tension.
There are two ways to do it, and they work differently. A stringer can pre-stretch the string by hand before installing it, or use the pre-stretch function on an electronic machine. With electronic pre-stretch, the machine briefly pulls above your selected tension, then drops back to it before the string is clamped.
Here's an example. 25 lbs with 10% pre-stretch means a temporary pull to 27.5 lbs, followed by a return to 25 lbs. The percentage refers to the extra pulling force, not to the string being made 10% longer. Your reference tension is still 25 lbs.
The goal is to reduce some of the initial tension loss as the strings settle in. It won't stop tension loss completely, and there's no single percentage that suits every string or racket.
Ask your stringer whether pre-stretch makes sense for your setup. Because it involves a brief pull above your selected tension, they'll need to account for that and follow the racket and string instructions, especially if you're stringing close to the racket's limit.
If pre-stretch is used, write down the method and setting. That way your next restring can be matched more closely.
What to tell your stringer before your next restring
The more specific you are, the better your next setup will be. Bring this information along:
-
Your racket model, so they can check its tension limits and stringing instructions.
-
Your current setup: the string, your mains and crosses tensions, any pre-stretch setting, and roughly when it was last restrung.
-
What you want to change: describe the shots or the feel you're struggling with.
-
Your usual shuttle: feather or plastic.
-
One adjustment to test: a small change, such as 1 lb, with everything else kept the same.
Keep in mind that strings lose tension over time. A fresh restring at your usual setting will likely feel firmer than the worn strings it replaces, so give it a few sessions and note how it plays before you judge it.
Something like "My clears got harder after my last tension increase, but I like the feel at the net" gives your stringer something real to work with, and gives you a clear way to judge whether the next setup is better.

Ready to find the right string for your game? Explore HNDRD strings.